Blocks of silver are beaten or melted and molded into plates and rods. These are then cut or bent to form the basic shapes of the jewelry. The craftsmen add little 'Ghunghroos' (ankle bells), twists in the wires, or patterned punches to embellish the pieces. Acid is used as a final finish to impart sheen.

Raw Materials

- Silver wires: Used for detailed work, these are sourced from Indore.
- Ghunghroo: These are little metal bells which are sourced from Indore.
- Silver: Available locally in the form of bricks or plates, it is then melted or beaten or drawn into wires and formed as per the design.
- Acid polish: To provide a finish to the ornament.

Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_raw_material_0Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_raw_material_1

Waste

The only waste during the whole process is the ash from fuel used for heat generation. The ash is sometimes used in household for various purposes or if in large quantity, it is sold to brick making companies. 

Tools & Technology

- Iron dies and moulds 
- Hammers
- Chisels
- Files
- Brushes
- Pliers

Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_tools_technology_0Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_tools_technology_1Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_tools_technology_2Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_tools_technology_3Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_tools_technology_4Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_tools_technology_5

Rituals

Once a match is made during the Bhagoria festival (where the young men and women choose their partners to marry), the womenfolk head towards the local market with a bride. There the bride fills her basket with the jewelry she wants. The marriage season is usually from February to mid July, when the jewelry sales hit the peak.

Process

The metal bricks, rods or plates are acquired and then melted. The tribal jewelry is categorized into two forms based on the form of raw material.
For rods, the molten metal is poured in iron moulds of particular shape. The moulds have previously engraved motifs

Once it cools, the resulting shape is taken out of the mould and bent into closed curves to form armlets, bracelets and necklaces. Sometimes, two thin rods are wound around each other, to form a choker. Various playful permutation combinations of the metal in its different forms leads to a plethora of jewelry designs.

For plates, pressure is applied on the solid sections bought from the market and these sections are beaten into flat pieces. These are then cut according to the desired outline of the pendants. The motifs and patterns are transferred onto them using the dies, or sculpted using small chisels and hammers. 
Embellishments like the pendants and ghungroos are attached to the main pieces, or to the main metal rods using metal wire linkages. The ends of the chokers and hooks of the earrings are all made by twisting the rods or the wires. Thus the material used is uniform and it has no external attachments.
The last step is the polishing of the ornaments. These are dusted with a thick bristled brush and then polished with acid to bring out the luster.

Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_process_0Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_process_1Jewelry_Jobat-Alirajpur_process_2

Comments