The Indian applique technique of Gota Patti is an art originating in Rajasthan,utilizing real gold and silver lace traditionally sourced from Lucknow. A very intricate form of metal embroidery, this technique is also known as Gota Kinari or 'Lappe ka Kaam'. The gold and silver metals have now been replaced with silver coated copper, however the majestic royal look of the Gota remains the same.

Raw Materials

Base Fabrics: The base fabrics used for Gota Patti work are light weight chiffon, georgette , satin solid dyed or printed fabrics. The different styles of printing are used in fabrics like direct ( wooden block) , resist style (tie and dye , batiks) or discharge . It depends on seasonal demand and fashion trend of the local market . Normally fast colors like red, green, pink, yellow used for dyeing and printing.

Gota / Ribbon: Polyester ribbon is most commonly used for appliquè work. It is a moisture resistant, cost effective and durable fabric made up of twill/sateen structure in attractive colours. Commercially this ribbon is available in roll form and cost around Rs 500/- per kilogram. Apart from polyester ribbon, the metallic ribbon is also used. This ribbon consists of a metallic weft, while warp is made up of polyester filaments yarn. Commercially, this ribbon cost around Rs 1000/- per kilogram.

Zari lace : 
Zardosi:
Beads, Tones, Crystals, Tracing Paper, Adhesive, Chalk Powder

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Waste

The waste that is left after the process of Gota Patti embroidery are shreds of the ribbon and threads, which are collected and disposed.

Tools & Technology

Wooden frame: The Gota Patti work is done on Wooden or metallic Frame also known as adda or khaat, over which base fabric is drag tightly to provide uniform tension and that prevents pattern distortion.

Needle: Awe or ari needle used for the process. it is type of crochet needle.

Scissors, Wooden Hammer, Iron tool known as Pitan Kutan

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Rituals

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Process

~ 'Chapaayi' is the process of printing the pattern on the base fabric. Tie-dyed georgettes, pastel chiffons, tussar silks, crepes and khaadi-cottons are commonly used materials. Firstly, the fabric is tied to two sides of a wooden frame (known as 'khaat') using thick cords. Tracing paper with perforated pattern known as 'khaaka' is placed on the fabric and rubbed with a white paste of chalk powder, making the design appear on the fabric.

~ The base fabric stretched on wooden frame by help of cords. It adjusted according to size of base fabrics. At an time 5 to 7 artisans work on wooden frame. The design would be trace by the paper on the base fabrics . The chalk powder used for spreading the design on a base fabrics. Gota Patti is cut according to motif.

~ 'Takaayi' is the process of stitching Gota on the fabric. Gota is woven on power looms and consists of cotton (warp) and a metal (weft). 'Gotapatti' is actually the cutting and folding of these tapes into basic rhomboid units, referred to as patti or leaves, and combining them to create elaborate motifs that include peacocks, paisleys, flowers, geometric patterns and elephants. Pieces of Gota are first stuck with fabric-glue and then appliquèd using running, back, hem or couching stitch. For a simpler effect, Gota strips may also be stitched in a simple line. A wide variety of threads like cotton, silk, metal etc. are used to create outlines of these shapes, adding a dash of color and enhancing their beauty.

~ 'Silaayi' is the process of tailoring an embroidered fabric into a finished garment. Details like zippers, buttons, latkans (dangling charms) etc. are added at this stage.

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