Introduction:

In the era of science and technology, certain tribal communities find themselves in a technologically primitive, pre-agricultural stage. Their economy is uncomplicated, primarily rooted in forests, rendering them extremely impoverished. Many among them lack literacy, and their population growth remains stagnant. In India, there are 74 such groups recognized as Primitive Tribal Groups (PTG), and the Baiga community is counted among them. In the state of Madhya Pradesh, which hosts a total of 43 tribal groups, three—namely Baiga, Bharia, and Sahariya—are specifically identified as PTG. This acknowledgment highlights their unique socio-economic and cultural context, positioning them distinctively within the broader framework of tribal communities in India. Baigas are widely distributed in Dindori, Mandla, Shahdol, and Balaghat districts of Madhya Pradesh.

Usage:

The orthodox Baiga tradition involved a preference for minimal clothing. Baiga women traditionally wear a garment known as “lugra,” (fabric) a long strip of pink and white cloth tied around the waist, wrapped across the breast, and tucked in at the shoulder. This creates a short skirt like that falls above the knees. While lugra (fabric) has been the traditional attire, sarees have gained popularity among Baiga women in recent times. Men adhered to this tradition by wearing short dhotis, which could be as brief as a langot (loin cloth). Additionally, it was common for men to cover their heads with a piece of cloth. This traditional attire reflected the cultural practices and preferences of the Baiga community, emphasizing simplicity in clothing.

While some were designed for everyday wear, particular patterns were reserved for special occasions such as bridal wear. Additionally, specific patterns were set aside as gifts for the bride’s mother.


Significance:

For certain tribal communities or those labelled as “primitives,” clothing serves as a form of practice to shield oneself from the impact of various weather conditions, such as rain, wind, or extreme temperatures. In contrast, some lack a “tradition for clothing” or “personal adornment” and acquire pieces of cloth from nearby weavers or mill cloth from local retail stores. Within the Adivasis of the central zone, there is a preference for a one-piece, skirt-like apparel, particularly for young girls. Elder women, on the other hand, opt for a plaid or sari-type cloth referred to as “lugra”. This attire may also be draped over the head on occasion. The different clothing choices reflect the diverse practices and preferences within these communities.


Myths & Legends:

The Baiga believe their mythical ancestors were Nanga Baiga, the male ancestor, and Nanga Baigin, the female ancestor. They were born from the goddess Dharti Mata, and Nanga Baiga had “great” magic power. They helped Bhagavan create the world and serve as its guardians.

Stories and beliefs of Baiga Adivasi community, unfolds the cultural tales that have been valued through generations. Some of famous are mentioned below:

Once upon a time, when the world was all water, God took a break on a floating leaf. Wishing for land, God made a crow from chest dirt and asked it to find soil. The tired crow sought help from Kunwar Kakaramal, a wise tortoise, who guided it to Paataal Lok, where Raja Kichakmal hid the soil. The crow brought back the soil, and God used it to create land, stirring it with a vessel and snake. To steady the land, God created the Agaria, who made iron nails. The Nanga Baiga secured the corners, stopping the land from shaking. Since then, Baigas are known as Earth’s protectors.

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Elephants’ Lost Wings: In ancient times, elephants possessed colossal wings and could soar the skies. One day, at a lake, a curious encounter with a crocodile led to a struggle lasting 12 years and 13 yugs (epochs). Overwhelmed, the elephant sought divine intervention. God, finding the elephant with torn wings and near demise, used its ears to rescue and pull it from the water. In an effort to prevent destruction upon descending to the land, God removed the remaining wings, decreeing elephants could no longer fly. Thus, the wide ears of elephants became a testament to their past.

The Baiga and the Tiger’s Tale: Once upon a hill, Baiga Latiya and his pregnant wife was wandering into the forest for roots. When labour hit, a strange prediction was made – if a boy came, keep him away; if a girl, bring her. A boy was born, making Latiya furious. To protect the baby from a tiger threat, the mother fled, leaving the tigers to raise the child. As he grew, the boy cared for the tigers, hunting for them until they passed away. A unique story of a Baiga and a tiger, treasured by the Baiga community as a lasting friendship.

The Baiga and the Earth Mother’s Blessing: Saanti, a Baiga, had two wives, Jalango and Sayaat. In a dream, Mother Earth asked for a sacrifice to calm her. Saanti, believing the dream, took his children to the Earth Mother’s shrine. Along the way, a king offered his own bones, but Saanti refused. At Chitee hill, a wild boar appeared, volunteering for the sacrifice. Saanti danced the Karma dance, pleasing the Earth Mother. She blessed him to continue the dance forever. Since then, the Baiga people honour Mother Earth with song and dance.

The Beating of Bhagavan: In a town ruled by a Raja, an old Baiga, rewarded for his service, received a gold block. Enroute home, a dog stole the gold by a river. The old man, thinking it was Bhagavan, vowed to beat him. On his journey, he encountered a tank without water for five years, a horse unridden for 12 years, and a Gond man with five runaway wives because of unmarried husband’s sister. Bhagavan, disguised as a Dewar (Baiga magician and healer who performs important rituals in the village), advised him to return home. A letter by Bhagavan explained everything to the Raja, solving each problem. Following Bhagavan’s guidance, the old man found his gold at home, married the Gond’s sister, and lived happily.


History:

The Baiga, a relatively small and less recognized Scheduled Tribe in Madhya Pradesh, are known as priests. They refer to themselves as Bhumiraja/Bhumijan, signifying “Lord of the soil” or “Son of the nature.” Belonging to the Mundari or Kolorian group, they are scattered across central Indian states such as Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, and West Bengal.

Our study won’t start with tribes and races taking control in India. Instead, we recognize an original culture that existed before Aryan influence. Clues from the Indus Valley (harappan) and Ganges Valley (vedic) civilizations suggest people wore draped costumes, giving us a peek into the diverse culture that thrived in India before outside influences. This approach allows us to appreciate the indigenous roots and unique facts of India’s early civilizations. During Vedic India period, approximately 1500 years before the Christian era, a wealth of evidence emerges regarding prescribed costumes for various occasions. The Vedic era encompasses a diverse range of costumes tailored for ritual, domestic, and social purposes. The attire is intricately adorned, blending both draped and handmade elements.

The literature of the time not only details the costumes but also provides insights into complementary accessories such as headgear, footwear, shawls, scarves, and other embellishments. This comprehensive view allows us to appreciate the richness and diversity of clothing and accessories in Vedic India, shedding light on the cultural intricacies of that era.

In ancient India, clothing exhibited remarkable diversity with three prominent types of garments. The first style resembled a lungi, featuring a lower garment with pleats or “4 nivi” tucked at the bellybutton. This was paired with a close-fitting choli or bodice, and a scarf-like over garment added an additional layer to the ensemble. The second type resembled a sari but had a loose end or pallav for body coverage, eliminating the need for a separate garment. The third type comprised folk or Adivasi costumes, characterized by simple and meagre attire. This often took the form of a one-piece garment, tied either at the waist like a skirt or ingeniously knotted above the shoulders or below the arms. This diverse range of clothing reflected the cultural richness and adaptability of ancient Indian attire, catering to various preferences and functional needs.

In Vedic India, good dress was highly valued, evident in terms like “suvasana” and “surabhi.” As the Vedic age transitioned to the epic period, details about attire emerged, including terms like “adhi-vasa” for over-garments and “paryanahana” for shawl-like wraps. The literature hinted at “drapi” or embroidered garments, “usnisa” for head-dresses, and “atka” for flowing clothes. This emphasis on various attire elements reflects the cultural significance of dressing well in Vedic India.

The subsequent phase of Indian costume, believed to span from around 320 B.C. to approximately 320 A.D., witnesses the emergence of fashionable trends influenced by historical events and climatic considerations. During this period, “eight to ten distinct varieties” of dresses gain popularity. The draped sari, however, continues to dominate and extends its influence across the expanse of India. Alongside, more fashionable costumes emerge, including the kurta-salwar, skirts, cholis, trousers, gowns, and various head-dresses. These additions complement the three basic types of dress mentioned earlier: the lungi or skirt type with choli, the full sari with a pallav, and a one-piece dress fashioned either as a mere skirt or a combined garment from a strip of material. This era also introduces flowing over garments, tubular pleated skirts, full skirts, odhnis (wraps), full saris, and combinations like sadra and lungi (tunic cum skirt) to the diverse array of Indian attire.

Sanskrit and Prakrit literature serve as rich repositories of references to dress and its diverse forms. Within these literary works, vivid descriptions of various types of attire not only showcase aesthetics but also emphasize deportment and fashion. Approximately twenty-three writers contribute to these detailed portrayals of clothing. Among them, Rajashekhara’s “Kavyamimansa,” composed in the 10th century, holds a distinctive place. This work is regarded as a significant source establishing the existence of regional costumes, offering what is considered a more or less authentic record of the attire prevalent in India during that period. Rajashekhara specifically highlights affinities in costumes across the northern and north-western regions, encompassing Saurashtra, Rajasthan, Malva, and Central India. Scholars recognize his descriptions as accurate appraisals of costume styles, reflecting the realities of the time rather than mere imaginative narratives.

Utility, aesthetics and a common style of dress with reference also to the availability of materials seem to have dominated the sphere of dress, and regional costumes came to stay.

A symbiotic relationship between different communities is not uncommon in traditional societies, where each group may have its own specialized skills that contribute to the overall well-being of the community.

In this case, the weavers from the Panika caste play a crucial role in providing the Baiga tribe with durable and suitable clothing for their lifestyle in the forest. The use of thick and sturdy fabric makes sense, considering the challenging conditions of the forest environment.

The Panika are a Hindu community primarily found in the states of Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Odisha, and Uttar Pradesh. Traditionally, they are known for their occupation as weavers.

The use of traditional dyeing methods and weaving techniques is an interesting aspect of many indigenous cultures, and it adds a rich cultural and artistic dimension to the textiles produced. Aal, or madder, is a plant that has been historically used for dyeing textiles in various parts of the world. The dye obtained from the roots of the madder plant can produce a range of red and orange hues, and it has been employed for centuries to colour fabrics.

These weaving traditions not only contribute to the aesthetics of the textiles but also serve as a means of cultural expression and identity for the Baiga tribe and other communities in the region.


Design:

The throw-shuttle pit loom, known as mangtha, is crafted from sagwan (teak wood) or saal (Shorea robusta) for durability. Weavers order these looms from carpenters (badhai), emphasizing collaboration to tailor the looms to specific weaving needs, ensuring functionality for creating traditional textiles like Pata and Phenta.

The motifs and patterns found in the crafts of the community are deeply rooted in legends, folklore, and everyday life. Inspired by these influences, the motifs on Aal-dyed textiles in the region are typically categorized into animals, insects, birds, human figures, and objects from their surroundings. Additionally, geometric patterns inspired by nature contribute to the rich symbolism. The motifs not only add aesthetic value to the fabric but also carry cultural significance, reflecting the community’s traditions, beliefs, and stories. The choice of motifs can vary based on the weaver’s creativity, cultural influences, and the specific purpose of the fabric, whether it’s for daily wear, special occasions, or ceremonial use.


Challenges:

Economic Challenges: Economic factors such as limited access to markets, fluctuating prices of raw materials, and low demand for traditional handwoven fabrics can pose challenges for the Panika weavers in sustaining their livelihoods.

Technological Changes: With the advent of modern machinery and synthetic fabrics, there might be a decline in the demand for traditional handwoven Baiga fabrics, leading to challenges in preserving and promoting the traditional weaving techniques.

Skill Preservation: Traditional weaving techniques require specific skills and knowledge passed down through generations. However, younger generations might be less interested in pursuing traditional weaving practices, leading to a potential loss of traditional skills and knowledge within the Panika community.

Market Access and Marketing: Limited access to markets and marketing channels can restrict the Panika community’s ability to sell their products at fair prices and reach wider audiences.


The baiga community is mainly found in the districts of dindori, mandala, shandhol and bhalghat of Madhya Pradesh.

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